UNWANTED BEHAVIOURS rarely just go away.
They usually get worse. Why? Because . . .
Practised behaviours get stronger.
This is something you will hear our trainers say A LOT!
Practised behaviours get stronger, like building muscle memory at the gym, exercising daily or learning to drive a car. Things we do a lot become second nature, easier and require less effort the more ingrained they become. For healthy habits we want to create, that’s a good thing. But not so much when it comes to habits or behaviours that we don’t want.
When it comes to our dogs, many of the habits we don’t like are not only practised often but are also rooted in instinctual behaviours, making them even harder to “undo”. For example:
Barking, lunging, growling (warding off potential threats)
Chasing, catching, killing, consuming (prey driven activities essential for survival in a canine world)
Digging holes (storing food, making a bed to lie in, or investigating interesting smells).
It’s why we start with MANAGEMENT first.
Here are a few of the most common dog behaviour issues people come to us for:
Barking in the window or at the front fence/gate
Reactivity to other dogs, people or objects
Destructive behaviour, such as digging holes and chewing furniture
Jumping up at guests
Running the other way when called to "come"
Practised behaviours get stronger.
The more a dog gets to bark in the window, the more times they react to other dogs, the more holes they dig or couches they wreck, the more they jump on people, the more they run away instead of coming when called, the more entrenched the behaviour becomes.
If any or all of these apply to your dog, here’s what you need to be asking yourself:
Do you allow your dog to sit in the window and have the opportunity to bark at the postman or passers by?
Do you leave your dog unattended in the front garden to patrol the perimeter, run up and down the fence, and bark at dogs, people, bikes or cars going by?
Are you constantly putting your dog in situations where he will most likely meet and have the opportunity to bark and lunge at other dogs?
Are you allowing or even encouraging your dog to run to the front door every time a guest arrives? And therefore, giving them the opportunity to jump up on guests?
Are you allowing your dog to be off lead at the park when you know they won’t come back when called?
Practised behaviours get stronger.
Here’s the most important question: Why haven’t you put a stop to it yet?
Excuses aside, you can pretty much always find a way to prevent your dog from practising the behaviour in the first instance. Don’t put them in a position where it’s possible for them to display the behaviour and expect them to make the choice you want. That comes later. First comes management and teaching/guiding.
Putting a stop to it might mean:
Having no go zones in your house (no access to the front windows or front door) - think crate training, baby gate, keeping specific doors closed.
Not allowing your dog to be in the front garden unattended. If you only have a front yard, consider fencing off an area away from the gate or front fence and blocking line of sight to the triggers (put up heavy shade cloth or use solid fencing on that side).
Sending your dog to a friend or family member’s house on the days you are not home (but you must make sure the dog can’t practise the behaviours there either).
Choosing locations or times of the day for walks when it is highly unlikely you will meet another dog.
Choosing to train at home instead of going on walks (mental stimulation is an excellent way to tire your dog out).
Having your dog contained in a fenced area or dog run so that they can’t dig holes in your garden when you are away from home (telling them off when you get home will not stop them doing it – it is too late after the fact).
Containing your dog (in a crate, laundry or another room) before visitors arrive or are admitted to the house, or have your dog on a lead, so they can’t jump on anyone.
Keeping your dog on a lead or long line at the park or beach so that recall is not negotiable. They must come back when called and you can reel them in on a lead if they choose not to. "Don't ask it if you can't enforce it" is something those who work with us hear us say a lot.
It seems to be human nature to wait until we see a behaviour and then try to address it in the moment. It's hard to do that though when your dog has already lost its mind at the sight of another dog, knocked Great Aunt Kate over at the front door, or is halfway down the beach as you call after them to come back to you. In truth, they're just getting to practise the behaviour.
So, at this stage it is important to always take action BEFORE your dog does. Start by taking away the opportunity to practise the unwanted behaviours.
It’s definitely not the full solution. Of course we do not suggest locking your dog up in a pen at the back of the garden for the rest of its life and doing nothing else with it.
Management is only one part of the solution. From there we must work on relationship building, foundation skills and teaching the behaviours we want to see in those moments instead. We also need to balance everything out with appropriate outlets for those instincts that are getting them into trouble in the first place (play and various dog sports provide excellent avenues).
The end goal is to teach a dog how to successfully be at liberty. We implement strong management initially, while we are teaching and shaping the behaviours that we want. Eventually we must give them the opportunity to make choices. Whether they make good or unacceptable choices, there must be consequences for both.
Dogs will always weigh up the costs and benefits of their behaviour, just like humans do. Good choices mean more freedom for your dog and it makes taking your dog out and about more enjoyable for you.
IMPORTANT TIP: It works both ways. Practised behaviours get stronger and that means good behaviours too.
Create opportunities for your dog to practise and be rewarded for behaviours you do like.
Capture any behaviours that pop up and which you want to encourage. As soon as you see it, mark the behaviour and reward. If your dog has a conditioned reward marker, then he knows something good is coming (anticipation is a strong driver for most dogs).
Identifying the patterns that have formed around unwanted behaviours and changing them is a key component of behaviour modification. It can be tricky to get everything aligned so don't rule out getting professional help from a trainer. We can help.
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